Bikes and Bunnies

Our last couple of days in Europe we spent in Munster, which is the bike capital of Germany!  It's the only place I've been where I was seriously worried about being taken out by a cyclist.  They are everywhere, and pedestrians need to watch where they walk.

red line indicates bike lane

waiting at an intersection

bikes were parked on every sidewalk

cyclists get their own traffic lights

Also, bunnies were proliferating in this town -- no natural predators, maybe?

close enough for a photo, but not to catch as the boys attempted

hanging out on a traffic rotary island

Munster also has great outdoor recreation space, where we sought the shade.  Living in Glasgow has left us ill-suited to temps in the high 80s.

manmade lake, the Aasee

Botanic Gardens

outdoor dance space with beer wagon (note the disco ball)

Also, great cafes.  We loved the lighting and couches in this one.

And, although my boys prefer French baguettes, I was wowed by the wholegrain options -- German bread was amazing to me!

Finally, in Paris we saw these bike locks on bridges and couldn't figure them out.  In Munster, we saw them again, but these had commemorative words or initials written or etched on them, so we figured it's some way to memorialize a person or event.

pretty, huh?

We're back in Glasgow now!  We had a great time on our brief European tour, but it felt good to be home, even though it's not quite home-home as our kids call Bangor.  Toady, we are celebrating Liam's birthday and beginning our packing in preparation for moving out of the apartment and going to the Highlands with our friends from the States -- the first family arrives tonight.  It will be a whirlwind finale to our time in Scotland.  Can't believe we're leaving in 12 days!!

Au Revoir Paris

Yesterday was our last full day in Paris, and we decided to explore the area around our apartment more.  We're staying near the Stalingrad metro stop in the 10th arrondisment, so it feels like a world away from the touristy areas.  

We headed out towards the Canal St Martin which becomes a pedestrian area on Sunday mornings.  Despite the rain we saw lots of runners and this flea market which seemed to specialize in kids' clothes and toys.

 A few Pokemon cards and figures later, we continued along the canal checking out more cool stores and stopping for a delicious baguette sandwich and Nutella crepe.

Then, we went to 104, an open studio space with some art installments.  When I said open, I meant literally large open spaces where people were practicing all kinds of dance, performance art boxing, pilates, and singing.  Mixed in with these performers using the space for rehearsal or hanging out were families picnicking and kids' party complete with costumes and crowns, and a DJ.  Maybe due to the rain outside, but 104 was an amazing scene with something new to see in every niche.  

The three formal installations were also very cool. 

Bâtiment by Leandro Erlich -- an optical illusion that you could climb on to make yourself appear to be hanging on the exterior of a building.

The Treachery of Sanctuary by Chris Milk -- a screen where your shadow deconstructed into butterflies and your arms became birds' wings.

And  Le Labyrinthe by Michelangel Pistoletto -- a paper maze

We all loved this art space!!

Unfortunately, it was still raining when we went on a long and fruitless search for the baguette vending machine which had been reported in the NY Times last year and for a restaurant recommended in Time Out Paris -- both closed!  So tired, wet and cranky, the day ended a little less happy than it began, but that is traveling for you -- ups and downs.  Off to Heidelberg today!

Paris' Greatest Hits

Yesterday, we hit the big tourist sights -- Ile de la Cité and the Eiffel Tower.

Ile de la Cité is one of two islands in the middle of Paris and home to Notre Dame Cathedral so you can imagine the hordes of tourists.  Before checking out this iconic church, we decided to visit Sainte-Chappelle.  This chapel is famous its stained glass, but has special meaning to us because across the street from our flat in Glasgow is a church that was modeled after Sainte-Chappelle.  The two buildings have very similar exteriors, but our church does not have windows like these.

The windows in this chapel tell Biblical stories in intricate detail, beginning with Genesis.  The one below tells of the Passion of Christ.

This window was above the niche where the Queen Mother would sit and told the story of Judith who protected her people just as the Queen Mother protected the throne for her son, King Louis IX.  Between panels about Judith were depictions of castles near her home in Castile.

Ready for some lunch, we crossed over to Ile St-Louis for lunch in this cute café.

escargots

After wandering along the main street of this island, window shopping in the fun stores, we re-traced our steps to check out the exterior of Notre-Dame.  The gargoyles do not disappoint!  Since the line to get inside was interminable, we decided the outside was enough for us.

Then, the most famous of all -- the Eiffel Tour.  We arrived at sunset, so we saw the tower by day

and by night.

We opted to take the stairs up -- no line and a bargain!  The views surpassed our expectations -- what a great tourist attraction!!

Although being there at night this time of year meant returning to our apartment after midnight, it was worth it.  Iconic Paris -- amazing!

Scottish Immersion

It's hard to believe, but the end is in sight.  This week we go to France and Germany for ten days, then return to Scotland for a trip to Perth and Inverness (northern Scotland), then a few, final days in Glasgow and back home.  I can't imagine not being in Glasgow, but I'm sure the moment I'm back it will feel like I never left.

We're trying to eke out the most we can, so here are some of the quintessential Scottish things we've been doing as our time in Glasgow winds down.

A couple of weeks ago, our friends Simon and Marina had a history department party to say good-bye to Liam and another colleague who was working at the University of Glasgow temporarily.  Even though both Simon and Marine are transplants to Scotland, the spread at their house shows the generous hospitality extended to friends and family (as we also experienced while visiting cousins in Ireland).  Don't you want to go their next party?

sweets

savories

guests

Simon and Marina

Then on Sunday, Liam, Cormac and I went to see Macbeth.  Now, I've taught this play MANY times, but have never seen a live production of it.  This show was a little different -- Macbeth is in a mental hospital and tells the story by acting out all the parts himself in sort of a flashback style.  Although I missed the physical action and the different settings of the play, Alan Cumming surpassed himself in playing almost every part -- truly impressive acting.  Especially well-done was the use of CCTV and shadows to portray the three witches.  I also loved when the patient Macbeth asks the doctor and attendant, "When shall we three meet again?" at the beginning and end of the play.  Seeing this story of a Scottish king gone mad with ambition and hubris in Scotland with actors speaking in Scottish accents was very special!

creepy advertising poster

Also on Sunday, the whole family went to see my friend Barbara sing in the Mackintosh Choir, who performed a concert at the Mackintosh Church (described here).  The choir did a great job singing a range of numbers from "Hallelujah" (made famous by the Shrek movie) to "Ave Verum" (a Mozart hymn).  But most interesting to us was a series of traditional Scottish songs, which told the story of Charles Stuart's mid-18th century attempt to restore his father James VIII to the throne with the aid of the Jacobites (Latin for James, so James supporters).  Bonnie Prince Charlie's forces were defeated, but a legend was created.  Many of the songs expressed the loyalty and bravery the Stuarts and their supporters showed when fighting against great odds.

So, food, royalty, song, drama -- to me that's Scottish immersion, and a lot of what we will miss the most when we have to leave Scotland.  But in answer to the lyrics of the choir's encore song "Will ye no' come back again?"  I'm sure we will return some day (never mind enjoy our remaining time)!

Tourist Life

Here's how tourist life under our rule goes:

Visitors to our Glasgow enjoy a leisurely pace and a unique combination of local, off-beat sites and best of the best of tourist sites.  We will tailor your visit to your individual interests:  sports, gardens, museums, politics, food, shopping.  We will allow you to enjoy all that Glasgow has to offer using our vast five months of experience in this city!

Here's what we did with my dad and Holly in the last three days to give you a taste of what may be in store if you visit Glasgow with us:

Wednesday:  Late morning start (11:00 -- so time to relax and enjoy your healthy breakfast) with a massage and facial (1/3 off regular price due to being with a temporary local) followed by A Play, Pie and a Pint (45 minute play at local pub accompanied by lunch).  Then, off to observe native Glaswegians picking their children up from school (chance to see real locals in their native attire).  Finally, a gourmet seafood dinner at Two Fat Ladies (bistro-style, neighborhood restaurant with delicious fish).

Thursday:  Late morning start, then to the Kelvingrove Museum to see the wonders within, including Glasgow Boys art, Mackintosh design artifacts, taxidermy animals, Scottish art, and much more.  Relaxing lunch at the cafe where you can choose from local dishes such as salmon cakes, soups and sandwiches or tea and cake.  Then, an evening of snacks, wine and games in a typical Glaswegian flat.


Friday:  Earlier start (10:00) at the City Chambers for a tour of the amazing Victorian architecture and interior design (see photos below).  A quick tour of the Cathedral and St Mungo Museum of Religious Art followed by a two hour rest period.  Then high tea at The Butterfly and Pig and a night at the theatre with the family seeing Avenue Q (described as a satirical Sesame Street) at the King's Theatre (another chance to experience some gorgeous Victorian design).

As you can see, we balance activity with rest, food with walking, culture with architecture.  Limited tours still available, so be sure to book soon.  All rights reserved.

Also available, tours of Bangor, Maine after July 2012 (but then you will mostly see harried parents juggling work and family in a town with much more limited options).


Photos from inside Glasgow's City Chambers

the ceiling of the lobby

archway into city council section

ceiling of council section

longest marble staircase in western Europe (3 storeys)

detail of Italian marble used throughout

The Victorians may have been gaudy and repressed (which is an interesting combination in itself), but they designed some amazing buildings, and luckily many of Glasgow's Victorian buildings are still around!

Inside the City Champers the former Lord Provosts (like a mayor but elected by the city councilors) all have a portrait.  Most are very typical, an oil painting or photograph either at his/her desk or seated in a chair.  This controversial Lord Provost chose this almost caricaturist style -- he had a lot of conflict with the city councilors so I wonder if the stormy sky with red edges is to reflect that conflict or is he proclaiming himself as the dawn that will disperse the cloud?

Pat Lally, Lord Provost 1995-1999

Richard Thibedeau, acting Lord Provost 18 May 2012 10:45-10:47am

Weekend in Dublin -- Flowers and Family

Today, we started off with a visit to the National Botanic Gardens, which is within walking distance of our hotel.  What a spectacular place!  We were wowed by the extensive plantings and impressive grounds.

I loved these figures basking in the sun with expressions of such contentment!

Amazing glass houses including one with a palm house including palm trees that are easily 18 feet tall and lots of other tropical plants with over-sized foliage.

Declan is all set to replicate this hut back in our Bangor yard

The water feature in the rockery, the rhododendrons following a river walkway, the formal rose garden -- there was something to appeal to anyone interested in plants and flowers.  Plus, a great cafe with many delicious choices from full meals to cakes.

In the afternoon, we divided forces.  My dad, Cormac and Declan went on the Viking Splash tour, which was a water/land tour of Dublin where the participants wore plastic Viking hats.  I went in search of the Oscar Wilde house only to find out that there were no longer tours there, but saw his statue in the nearby park.  Liam went to see the Francis Bacon collection.

Oscar Wilde in a telling posture

Look at that expression!

I thought the Oscar Wilde statue really captured his flamboyancy and his satirical wit -- the sprawling figure with a slight sneer, dressed to impress.


We ended our Dublin day having dinner with my dad's cousins -- three sisters and a sister-in-law from his mother's side.  We chatted, ate, and looked at old and new photos!  So fun to see these relatives whom I remember very well even though I've only met them a few times in my life.

My dad's sister, Margaret in the red coat with a cousin

My paternal grandmother on the right

My sister, Catherine on top of John Guiney's shoulders with Jill Webb

Liam, me, Cormac, Holly, Declan, my dad

from left back: John Webb, Holly Jannell, Richard Thibedeau
from left front: Ann Colgan, Ina Guiney, Mary Webb, Paula Madigan