Au Revoir Paris

Yesterday was our last full day in Paris, and we decided to explore the area around our apartment more.  We're staying near the Stalingrad metro stop in the 10th arrondisment, so it feels like a world away from the touristy areas.  

We headed out towards the Canal St Martin which becomes a pedestrian area on Sunday mornings.  Despite the rain we saw lots of runners and this flea market which seemed to specialize in kids' clothes and toys.

 A few Pokemon cards and figures later, we continued along the canal checking out more cool stores and stopping for a delicious baguette sandwich and Nutella crepe.

Then, we went to 104, an open studio space with some art installments.  When I said open, I meant literally large open spaces where people were practicing all kinds of dance, performance art boxing, pilates, and singing.  Mixed in with these performers using the space for rehearsal or hanging out were families picnicking and kids' party complete with costumes and crowns, and a DJ.  Maybe due to the rain outside, but 104 was an amazing scene with something new to see in every niche.  

The three formal installations were also very cool. 

Bâtiment by Leandro Erlich -- an optical illusion that you could climb on to make yourself appear to be hanging on the exterior of a building.

The Treachery of Sanctuary by Chris Milk -- a screen where your shadow deconstructed into butterflies and your arms became birds' wings.

And  Le Labyrinthe by Michelangel Pistoletto -- a paper maze

We all loved this art space!!

Unfortunately, it was still raining when we went on a long and fruitless search for the baguette vending machine which had been reported in the NY Times last year and for a restaurant recommended in Time Out Paris -- both closed!  So tired, wet and cranky, the day ended a little less happy than it began, but that is traveling for you -- ups and downs.  Off to Heidelberg today!

Scottish Immersion

It's hard to believe, but the end is in sight.  This week we go to France and Germany for ten days, then return to Scotland for a trip to Perth and Inverness (northern Scotland), then a few, final days in Glasgow and back home.  I can't imagine not being in Glasgow, but I'm sure the moment I'm back it will feel like I never left.

We're trying to eke out the most we can, so here are some of the quintessential Scottish things we've been doing as our time in Glasgow winds down.

A couple of weeks ago, our friends Simon and Marina had a history department party to say good-bye to Liam and another colleague who was working at the University of Glasgow temporarily.  Even though both Simon and Marine are transplants to Scotland, the spread at their house shows the generous hospitality extended to friends and family (as we also experienced while visiting cousins in Ireland).  Don't you want to go their next party?

sweets

savories

guests

Simon and Marina

Then on Sunday, Liam, Cormac and I went to see Macbeth.  Now, I've taught this play MANY times, but have never seen a live production of it.  This show was a little different -- Macbeth is in a mental hospital and tells the story by acting out all the parts himself in sort of a flashback style.  Although I missed the physical action and the different settings of the play, Alan Cumming surpassed himself in playing almost every part -- truly impressive acting.  Especially well-done was the use of CCTV and shadows to portray the three witches.  I also loved when the patient Macbeth asks the doctor and attendant, "When shall we three meet again?" at the beginning and end of the play.  Seeing this story of a Scottish king gone mad with ambition and hubris in Scotland with actors speaking in Scottish accents was very special!

creepy advertising poster

Also on Sunday, the whole family went to see my friend Barbara sing in the Mackintosh Choir, who performed a concert at the Mackintosh Church (described here).  The choir did a great job singing a range of numbers from "Hallelujah" (made famous by the Shrek movie) to "Ave Verum" (a Mozart hymn).  But most interesting to us was a series of traditional Scottish songs, which told the story of Charles Stuart's mid-18th century attempt to restore his father James VIII to the throne with the aid of the Jacobites (Latin for James, so James supporters).  Bonnie Prince Charlie's forces were defeated, but a legend was created.  Many of the songs expressed the loyalty and bravery the Stuarts and their supporters showed when fighting against great odds.

So, food, royalty, song, drama -- to me that's Scottish immersion, and a lot of what we will miss the most when we have to leave Scotland.  But in answer to the lyrics of the choir's encore song "Will ye no' come back again?"  I'm sure we will return some day (never mind enjoy our remaining time)!

Tourist Life

Here's how tourist life under our rule goes:

Visitors to our Glasgow enjoy a leisurely pace and a unique combination of local, off-beat sites and best of the best of tourist sites.  We will tailor your visit to your individual interests:  sports, gardens, museums, politics, food, shopping.  We will allow you to enjoy all that Glasgow has to offer using our vast five months of experience in this city!

Here's what we did with my dad and Holly in the last three days to give you a taste of what may be in store if you visit Glasgow with us:

Wednesday:  Late morning start (11:00 -- so time to relax and enjoy your healthy breakfast) with a massage and facial (1/3 off regular price due to being with a temporary local) followed by A Play, Pie and a Pint (45 minute play at local pub accompanied by lunch).  Then, off to observe native Glaswegians picking their children up from school (chance to see real locals in their native attire).  Finally, a gourmet seafood dinner at Two Fat Ladies (bistro-style, neighborhood restaurant with delicious fish).

Thursday:  Late morning start, then to the Kelvingrove Museum to see the wonders within, including Glasgow Boys art, Mackintosh design artifacts, taxidermy animals, Scottish art, and much more.  Relaxing lunch at the cafe where you can choose from local dishes such as salmon cakes, soups and sandwiches or tea and cake.  Then, an evening of snacks, wine and games in a typical Glaswegian flat.


Friday:  Earlier start (10:00) at the City Chambers for a tour of the amazing Victorian architecture and interior design (see photos below).  A quick tour of the Cathedral and St Mungo Museum of Religious Art followed by a two hour rest period.  Then high tea at The Butterfly and Pig and a night at the theatre with the family seeing Avenue Q (described as a satirical Sesame Street) at the King's Theatre (another chance to experience some gorgeous Victorian design).

As you can see, we balance activity with rest, food with walking, culture with architecture.  Limited tours still available, so be sure to book soon.  All rights reserved.

Also available, tours of Bangor, Maine after July 2012 (but then you will mostly see harried parents juggling work and family in a town with much more limited options).


Photos from inside Glasgow's City Chambers

the ceiling of the lobby

archway into city council section

ceiling of council section

longest marble staircase in western Europe (3 storeys)

detail of Italian marble used throughout

The Victorians may have been gaudy and repressed (which is an interesting combination in itself), but they designed some amazing buildings, and luckily many of Glasgow's Victorian buildings are still around!

Inside the City Champers the former Lord Provosts (like a mayor but elected by the city councilors) all have a portrait.  Most are very typical, an oil painting or photograph either at his/her desk or seated in a chair.  This controversial Lord Provost chose this almost caricaturist style -- he had a lot of conflict with the city councilors so I wonder if the stormy sky with red edges is to reflect that conflict or is he proclaiming himself as the dawn that will disperse the cloud?

Pat Lally, Lord Provost 1995-1999

Richard Thibedeau, acting Lord Provost 18 May 2012 10:45-10:47am

Sacrilege!

Another installation for the Glasgow Festival of Visual Art is a bounce house Stonehenge, called Sacrilege by Jeremy Deller.  Maybe a statement about sacred space?  But mostly just fun!  First the humorous rules, no shoes, no glasses, no human sacrifices.  Then, lots of giggling and chasing as people of all ages from grannies to toddlers ran, flipped, dropped and jumped on this giant inflatable space.  Definitely art that appeals to the masses.

Less successful was artist Folkert de Jong's paint splattered sculptures of Mackintosh (here) and his wife posed with the Glasgow School of Art's larger than life casts of classic sculptures.  Although his colorful figures were fun and interesting, the juxtaposition didn't work for me.

Modern Art

Today, we said good-bye to my mom, after saying good-bye to Martin and Lesa yesterday.  I'm sad to see our visitors go.  We'll miss the company of course, but mostly the extra love that only comes from being with family and friends.

My mom, Lesa, and I found these giant, astro-turf covered chairs outside the Riverside Museum. 

While visiting, Clucky made Cormac this awesome hat with local wool!

To deal with our sorrows, we took the boys to see some exhibits that are part of the Glasgow International Festival of Visual Art.  I'm telling you there is a festival almost all the time in this city!

First stop was a sculpture installation that encouraged kids (and adults) to play with and on the sculptures, including steel drums connecting to tubes, forts with snap-on material, and structures to jump and run on.

Then, we went to the Collins Gallery which has a show on a Scottish environmental artist, George Wyllie, who created sculptures that were usually temporary, like a locomotive made of straw suspended above the River Clyde before it was ceremonially burned.

bike made out of bike tire

Titled "A Mortgaged Home Climbing Up a Wall"

Fireplace dug (dug = dog)
a pun since usually a fireplace dog holds the logs above the hearth

Finally, off to GOMA (Gallery of Modern Art) to see an installation made of sawdust and plastic bags. Although Martin said this exhibit made him mad because he thinks the artist is just messing with people, I found it somewhat charming.  Yes, it's made of trash, but there were some quirky elements like the shapes made from make-up that I liked.

More exhibits to come, including an inflatable version of Stonehenge which is also a bounce house.

First Day with Molly

Liam's cousin, Molly arrived on Friday night after 24 hours of travel from California! Being the trooper she is, we set out immediately upon her arrival to see a local theatre company perform The Importance of Being Earnest, a play I have taught many times. It was great to see a live show of this play, and the performance was in an old church that also houses a pub and restaurant, called Cottiers, which is literally a 10 minute walk from our flat.

Today, after a breakfast of scones and croissants selected by Liam and Declan on an early jaunt to a local bakery, Kemper and Jones, we headed out to City Centre to show Molly some architecture and sites.

A return to the Cathedral, this time included a visit to the Provand's Lordship, built in 1471 as part of a hospital and the oldest house in Glasgow. The last tenants ran a sweet shop, so they had some very old looking candy and some cool candy molds that included heart and fish shapes on display. Liam and Molly toured the religious history museum and Cathedral, while the boys and I explored the Necropolis again.

Above the fireplace in the oldest house in Glasgow

Another battle at a sacred site

We ended up stopping for a bite into this pub that had a group of musicians gathered in a corner, so some yummy Scottish snacks (cullen skink = smoked haddock chowder, stovies = sliced potatoes and hamburger, and toasted cheese = toasted bread with melted cheese) and traditional music.

Glaswegian Culture

Beyond its amazing and free museums, Glasgow has vibrant music, film, and theatre scenes. Having been here a scant three weeks, some configuration of our family has gone to concerts, movies, plays and opera. When we first arrived Celtic Connections, a traditional music festival similar to Bangor's own Folk Festival was happening. (By the way, if you've never gone to the folk festival in Bangor you are missing a great and free event packed with excellent musicians and artists.) In Glasgow, the shows aren't free or outdoors but have the same top-quality acts. Our friends, Simon and Marina, bought us some tickets, choosing what they thought were the best ( a big thanks to them!!), and on Sunday, we all saw the Transatlantic Sessions which is like a big jamfest with musicians from the UK, US and Canada. There was so much going on stage with over 15 performers, I didn't know who to watch. It was an amazing show in an amazing space, the Glasgow Royal Concert Hall.

Twice, Liam and I tried to go see The Descendants at a movie theatre which is about three blocks away and both times it was sold out. After asking the staff, we realized most people book their tickets ahead of time, on-line since you buy the actual seats -- no free-for-all seating like in the US. So, we finally see it on our third attempt and were able to bring in our drinks from the pub next door. In fact, a special at the movie theatre is a large popcorn and a bottle of wine for ten pounds. The Scottish like to have alcohol available whenever possible -- you can see a huge difference from the Puritanical ethos that still permeates New England.

Yesterday, Liam and I went to a lunch time play at the halo church, which is a church turned into pub, restaurant, and performance space, actually named Oran Mor. We call it the halo church because they've put a neon halo around the spire. They run a theatre program called A Play, a Pie and a Pint, which on Wednesdays is about $12. After a lunch with choices of either meat pie or quiche plus a pint of Guiness or McAdams or a glass of wine (more evidence of the ubiquitous alochol), we saw Born to Run, a one-woman production about a woman who controls her epileptic seizures through running. This will be a definite stop on any visitor's intinerary, so if you're coming to see us, we'll be taking you here.

Then, today I went on my first ever field trip as a parent chaperone. It was very relaxing not to worry about which kids would behave and the logistics of getting places, as I was not the one in charge of this field trip. Except for the bus being an hour late (better than the last field trip when the bus did not come at all as the students kept telling me), Declan and I enjoyed our chance to see some Glasgow culture for kids.

First, we saw some animated shorts. Two by Lotte Reiniger, a German animator, who cut the most intricate and detailed silhouettes. My favorite were Cinderella's stepsisters, one of who cut off part of her foot to fit into the slipper and the drops of blood were quite graphic.

And, two by Ray Harryhausen an American producer who invented a new method of stop-action animation. Declan's favorite was his version of "The Tortoise and the Hare."

Then we saw Hansel and Gretel Unwrapped, which showed some parts of the full opera and some of the behind the scenes stuff, like how they changed sets between acts.

Declan's class was very well-behaved, more so than some kids from other schools who talked and called out during some of the shows. His teacher is very sweet and patient, so I'd say he lucked out with her!

This weekend is the Glasgow Youth Film Festival, so we'll be seeing some more movies then! And on Wednesday, Cormac and I are going to see Zach Braff (remember him from Scrubs) in a play, All New People, that he wrote. See what I mean -- LOTS of culture!!

Sorry no photos in this post -- more will come!