Sunday, June 10, 2012

Mull and Staffa and Iona, Oh My!

Yesterday we all, including my mother-in-law Gerri, toured some of the Western Islands of Scotland.  We made the coastal town of Oban our home base and arrived late Friday night to stay at a stellar B&B, the Glenburnie House, which was spectacular.  The best breakfasts we've had in any B&B, terrific views over the bay, and extremely pleasant staff.  Definitely a great place!

Oban is incredibly picturesque!








Fortified with a substantial breakfast we embarked on a multi-leg tour of some spectacular islands.  After a ride on a large Cal-Mac ferry, Mull was our first stop, but this island we just crossed en route to other islands.  Our bus trip from one end of Mull to the other was entertaining though thanks to our bus driver who gave a humorous, running commentary about Mull's wildlife, economy, forestry practices, summer road rage, etc.




Then, a boat trip over to Staffa where we passed some dolphins who played a little tag with the boat.  Staffa's claim to fame is Fingal's Cave and volcanic rock formations, but we traversed the island to see the puffins nesting in the cliffs.  Funny to travel to a different continent to see birds that we can see in Maine.

Again, amazing views and scenery!








Then back onto the boat to Iona, where the Book of Kells was made.  We had a late, delicious lunch at the only restaurant on the island, Argyll Hotel, then took a leisurely stroll around the Abbey.





check out the air this girl is getting!

happy tourists
Then, on to a smaller Cal-Mac ferry, bus and the big ferry to get back to Oban.  A lot of travel time, but worth it!


I can't recommend this trip enough.  The scenery was absolutely gorgeous!  Oh, try to arrange for a beautiful, sunny day like we had.

The only thing I would suggest is trying to arrange for more time on each island.  We weren't rushed, but had to only do part of each island.  Also, don't eat dinner at Pizazza in Oban -- mediocre food and very loud interior.

Thursday, June 7, 2012

Our Neighborhood -- Hillhead Architecture

Last week, my walking tour buddy Barbara and I set out for another neighborhood walk.  Armed with yet another  West End Heritage Trail map, we explored the architecture of Hillhead, which is roughly the area between Byres Rd, Great Western Rd, and University Ave.  This area is dominated by the university, so unlike the more residential areas we've explored, Hillhead has been altered and developed.  Old buildings from the 1850s and 1900s are tucked in between newer, concrete buildings added by the university.

So the oldest house in Hillhead is right behind the mod student center and across the street from the towering library.

Florentine House





A block of buildings like this


 is across the street from a block like this

terraces of Bute Gardens
door detail from Bute Gardens

There are some treasures, but you have to search for them.

 Like, the Western Baths ( a private swim club and gym) where we pretended we wanted to get on the waiting list so that the manager would give us a tour of the inside.  The pool's claim to fame are trapezes and rings over the water -- Cormac and Declan really want to go!



A hidden garden

viewpoint off Oakfield Ave

renovated stables at Coach House Trust

Barbara's building -- she lives in the bottom two floors and had the stained glass door and panels re-done



Two buildings opposite each other on Great Western Road

Cooper's

Hubbard's

Then on the more grim side, the old Hillhead High School which housed the primary until just this year when they moved to a new building.  Imagine four years old going to school here?  Looks like a Dickens' orphanage.


Another great tour that showed the diversity of architecture in the West End!

Tuesday, June 5, 2012

New Lanark


Idyllic setting for a model factory town
Yesterday we went to visit New Lanark, the site of Robert Owen's 18th century, utopian cotton mills.  Owen was a visionary capitalist of his time because he believed that workers should have decent housing, access to education, affordable food, and paid sick leave.  The kind and fair treatment made him a visionary, but he was still profit motivated and toured his mills every day to ensure everyone was working their hardest.  When he first purchased these cotton mills from his father-in-law, he had to replace many of the board as they thought his methods were crazy.  But obviously he was successful as these mills were working until the 1960s.

The site of New Lanark sits on the Clyde River near two waterfalls, providing the power for the mills and a beautiful setting.




Everything was peaceful and calm, although when the mills were running it probably wasn't so quiet.  This site now includes a ride where hologram figures tell the story of the mills from a ten year old factory worker's point of view; working textile machinery; tours of the school, store, millworker's house and Owen's house; and roof garden -- lots to do and see.

artfully displayed machine parts
statue on the roof garden wall

rabbits playing or fighting?
animal exhibit in school

Another attraction in New Lanark are the Scottish Wildlife Trust's trails leading to water falls and falcon nests.  These trails had something for everyone -- plant lovers could use the signs to identify flowers and animal lovers could see falcon hatchlings through telescopes set up by volunteers, plus gorgeous views of the river and falls.

Cora Linn
frog spotted on the trail
cliffs where falcons were nesting
great signs along path identifying flowers

We loved seeing the falcon chicks and enjoying the country setting.  Definitely a great day out!

Monday, June 4, 2012

Our Neighborhood -- Partick Architecture

Last evening, Liam and I went on an official walking tour (with a real guide, instead of just a map), led by architect, Fiona Sinclair.  Roughly, Partick is the area running along Dumbarton Road below Hyndland Ave, to the west of Byres Road though we started our tour on Byres Rd.

At one time there was a required one percent for art in new buildings, so we saw two things that show the range of public art.

A neon statue high on top of a commercial and residential building on the busiest corner of Byres Rd and University Ave.  The neon was never lit up, but the colors are still there.



A wrought-iron ship sculpture (to celebrate Glasgow's now defunct ship-building economy) on top of a new residential building done by a local housing association to replace a tenement that could not be renovated.


The late 19th century and early 20th century stone masons were artists in their right.  Architects would indicate places for sculptures on buildings but often it was the stone masons who decided what to do.  Here's an ingenious example of decorating the external drain pipe system outside the Western Infirmary on Church St.


This sculpture on the side of the Anderson College of Medicine incorporates a leaded-glass window and shows how discolored the sandstone can be.  Most of the sandstone buildings were cleaned as part of a city-wide improvement in the 1980s, but the cleaning is damaging to the stone so this was probably left alone in order to not ruin the figures.



All along the Kelvin River there used to be flour mills, most have been demolished and now most of the new buildings are student housing along with some older residential buildings.  Amid these high-rises and construction sites, one mill remains.  Bishops Mill is noted for its distinctive wheat sheaf finials (flour mill remember) and has been converted into flats.


New buildings incorporate old design elements

wrought iron fencing turned on its side to keep passersby from coming too close to the building

modern sculpture above a doorway depicting Glasgow (bus, sailing ships)


The most interesting part of the tour took us up Dowanhill St, which is a residential street that runs roughly parallel to Byres Rd.  The bottom four blocks of the street (south of Dowanhill Park) were tenements built for workers and their families due to  the street's proximity to the mills and the shipyards on the Clyde River.  These tenements would mostly be one or two room units with toilets and washing space in the alleys behind the buildings.  Their design though followed the Renaissance love for perspective and order with beautifully proportioned windows and decorative touches.  The idea was you could look down a block and the line of the buildings would flow down the street.

On the other side of Dowanhill Park you move from Partick into Dowanhill.  Many of the same design elements were used but the buildings held three or four units (a family per floor) and included stained and leaded glass, bay windows and marble entrances.  Doctors, lawyers and merchants lived in these buildings as opposed to factory and shipyard workers.  Continuing up the hill, the buildings become single unit villas so that one family would have three or four floors to themselves.  One street showing the whole early 1900s class structure of the West End!

slate roof, leaded glass, bay windows -- three units in this building

stained glass inside the entrance hall
This part of Dowanhill St is where I've decide I will live next time I move to Glasgow -- why not aim high?  Like maybe this single family house?


Saturday, June 2, 2012

Gardens Update

I love looking at gardens, and during my many walks around Glasgow, I have greatly enjoyed seeing how both people's individual gardens and the public gardens in the city parks have evolved over the spring months.  From bare stalks and frosted leaves to an explosion of tulips and daffodils to blossoming trees and emerging perennials, the gardens have given a spectacular show, which I'm sure will continue as we head into full summer (Glasgow style, at least).

Britain is famous for its bluebells, which often emerge in a mix of pink, blue and white.  Although these have gone by now, they were a nice treat in May.



The rhododendrons here are fabulous right now.   In just one border in the Botanics, there must be over a dozen different colors and varieties.









Two of my all-time favorite flowers are coming into bloom -- irises and peonies!



Last Thursday, my mother-in-law Gerri and her friend Gloria  were just finishing a tour of Scotland, which ended in Glasgow, so we were able to have them over for dinner and quick walk in the Botanics.  Gloria has returned to the States, but Gerri is visiting with us for another ten days.