Sculpture -- Old and New

Today, we took the funicular up to the Schloss (castle) which are really some ruins and gardens and mostly views back down to the city of Heidelberg.

We asked for a map and were told to just wander around to find things -- not that helpful.  So after asking two more people, we finally found the attractions beyond the gardens:  giant wine barrel and apothecary museum.  A little random, but actually pretty interesting.

Aesculpias, Greek god of medicine

of course, a crocodile is perfect decor for a pharmacy

Aspirin was invented in Germany, so there was a lot in the pharmacy museum about Bayer aspirin.

An interesting part of the museum explained the evolution of the pharmacy signs in Germany.  In 1930, a sign based on Bauhaus design became the choice as the uniform sign for all pharmacies.  The idea was a reminder to take your medicine three times a day.

The Nazis decided to change the sign because they disliked the modern style.  Their chosen design was based on German rune, an ancient alphabet with a mystical basis (favored by Hitler).

Post- WW2, the design was altered again to the one in current use which retains the same A letter but adds a snake and chalice emblem.

So, as a counterpoint to the historic architecture and pharmaceutical lore, we went to a modern art show called Echoes by Heide Hinrichs, a young German artist.  A little underwhelming as much modern art is, but here are two photos that show the contrast of what we saw today.

So, old sculpture

Hercules on the castle walls -- love the six pack!

and new sculpture

snakes or swans made out of washcloths

Another part of the exhibit we turned into performance art when we realized shadows came through on the other side of the screen showing this photo.

We loved Heidelberg's laid back pace, delicious ice cream, cafes which each served their own brand of beer, and pool (described here).  Tomorrow, we're off to Munster!

Daredevil Jumping!

Yesterday, we visited the Heidelberg Zoo which had its fair share of adorable animals, including some of our favorites like the red panda.  But it also had a few sights you wouldn't see at an American zoo like this wheelbarrow of meat just sitting in the middle of the tiger house

maybe the meat was for her lunch

Or the nest on top of a zoo building.

We named this zoo the fighting zoo because many of the animals would seem adorable when we came up to their enclosures or cages, then they would start brawling with each other, often singling out one for the chewing, drowning, beating.  None seemed to get hurt so maybe it was just play, but it looked pretty fierce.

cute otters before the fighting

An animal that was in the gift shop

After the zoo we hit the Schwimmbad, which was an amazing outdoor pool complex with a lap pool, diving pool, shallow pool with slides, kiddie pool, playground, basketball and volleyball courts, cafes... It was so nice!

even nicely landscaped

Cormac showed his bravery in the diving pool when he jumped off all the platforms.

The low one

The middle one

The highest one, which must have been at least forty feet in the air

Declan showed serious style while he kept to the lower platforms

So much fun!!  And as we hoped a very non-tourist day finished off with dinner with a Fulbright from Indiana and her cute five year old daughter who showed us her favorite climbing tree and the frogs in the botanical gardens near their apartment.

Hallo Heidelberg

We arrived in Heidelberg yesterday afternoon after a three hour train ride from Paris on the ICEE train that went 200 miles per hour!  We love traveling by train -- so relaxing.  Someone in Glasgow asked me why the US doesn't have trains like in the UK and Europe, and I had no answer for her.

We're staying in the old part of Heidelberg which is very touristy (since it's so quaint) and studenty (since the university is located in this area).  Our hotel called the Hip Hotel has a great gimmick of each room is decorated as if it's in a different country (check out the link to see the rooms' decors).  We're staying in Marrakesch which has fun details like a mural on the ceiling, tin lamps, and a tile mosaic sink.

We walked along the pedestrian streets of the old section of Heidelberg in search of dinner and sights. Lots of shops, ice cream places, cafes, river views, etc.

River Neckar

Found the famous monkey statue where local lore professes that touching the mirror will bring you wealth.  I'm not sure what using the statue as a mask will do, but every kid was doing this.

We're looking forward to exploring this historic city; its smaller scale is a nice respite from the size and scale of Paris.  As a total anti-tourist day, we're off to a zoo and an outdoor pool.

Au Revoir Paris

Yesterday was our last full day in Paris, and we decided to explore the area around our apartment more.  We're staying near the Stalingrad metro stop in the 10th arrondisment, so it feels like a world away from the touristy areas.  

We headed out towards the Canal St Martin which becomes a pedestrian area on Sunday mornings.  Despite the rain we saw lots of runners and this flea market which seemed to specialize in kids' clothes and toys.

 A few Pokemon cards and figures later, we continued along the canal checking out more cool stores and stopping for a delicious baguette sandwich and Nutella crepe.

Then, we went to 104, an open studio space with some art installments.  When I said open, I meant literally large open spaces where people were practicing all kinds of dance, performance art boxing, pilates, and singing.  Mixed in with these performers using the space for rehearsal or hanging out were families picnicking and kids' party complete with costumes and crowns, and a DJ.  Maybe due to the rain outside, but 104 was an amazing scene with something new to see in every niche.  

The three formal installations were also very cool. 

Bâtiment by Leandro Erlich -- an optical illusion that you could climb on to make yourself appear to be hanging on the exterior of a building.

The Treachery of Sanctuary by Chris Milk -- a screen where your shadow deconstructed into butterflies and your arms became birds' wings.

And  Le Labyrinthe by Michelangel Pistoletto -- a paper maze

We all loved this art space!!

Unfortunately, it was still raining when we went on a long and fruitless search for the baguette vending machine which had been reported in the NY Times last year and for a restaurant recommended in Time Out Paris -- both closed!  So tired, wet and cranky, the day ended a little less happy than it began, but that is traveling for you -- ups and downs.  Off to Heidelberg today!

Paris' Greatest Hits

Yesterday, we hit the big tourist sights -- Ile de la Cité and the Eiffel Tower.

Ile de la Cité is one of two islands in the middle of Paris and home to Notre Dame Cathedral so you can imagine the hordes of tourists.  Before checking out this iconic church, we decided to visit Sainte-Chappelle.  This chapel is famous its stained glass, but has special meaning to us because across the street from our flat in Glasgow is a church that was modeled after Sainte-Chappelle.  The two buildings have very similar exteriors, but our church does not have windows like these.

The windows in this chapel tell Biblical stories in intricate detail, beginning with Genesis.  The one below tells of the Passion of Christ.

This window was above the niche where the Queen Mother would sit and told the story of Judith who protected her people just as the Queen Mother protected the throne for her son, King Louis IX.  Between panels about Judith were depictions of castles near her home in Castile.

Ready for some lunch, we crossed over to Ile St-Louis for lunch in this cute café.

escargots

After wandering along the main street of this island, window shopping in the fun stores, we re-traced our steps to check out the exterior of Notre-Dame.  The gargoyles do not disappoint!  Since the line to get inside was interminable, we decided the outside was enough for us.

Then, the most famous of all -- the Eiffel Tour.  We arrived at sunset, so we saw the tower by day

and by night.

We opted to take the stairs up -- no line and a bargain!  The views surpassed our expectations -- what a great tourist attraction!!

Although being there at night this time of year meant returning to our apartment after midnight, it was worth it.  Iconic Paris -- amazing!