Day with the Dead

Yesterday, we spent our day visiting the dead at catacombs and cemeteries.  Despite our time with the departed, the sunny skies and Paris sights kept us from being too morbid.

We started the day at the Catacombes where Paris decided to move the bones of the dead after the cemeteries were deemed to be sources of infections.  Since its opening in the 18th century, people have visited these underground former stone quarry tunnels and the elite used to hold parties there.  Nowadays, it's a major tourist attraction, perhaps in part to its role in the 39 Clues series which Declan and I are reading.  In the first book of this series, brother and sister, Amy and Dan end up in Paris and have a dangerous escapade in the catacombs.

The Catacombes are worth the long wait in line

the walk through tight tunnels

to see the amazing piles of bones.

At first I was kind of shocked seeing femurs and skulls piled on the floor, but as I walked by the neatly stacked bones through tunnel after tunnel the patterns seem more abstract and the bones took on their own beauty.  Very impressive!!

The perfect anti-dote to the maze of bones -- a toy store with an Alice in Wonderland facade.

Then, back to more death at Cimetière du Montparnasse.  We loved all the sculptures people had on top of their above the ground tombs.  And notice the planters built along the sides -- necessary where there's little room (or ground) to plant along side.

Brancusi's famous kiss sculpture on the grave of a Russian anarchist who committed suicide for love.

Then, to continue our wallow in the departed -- off to Cimetière du Pere-Lachaise where I thought the map in our tourist book would be enough to find Jim Morrison's grave.  I thought wrong -- after a lot of wandering, circling, retracing and squabbling, we finally found both Jim and Oscar Wilde.

I did feel sorry for the people buried nearby these two famous ones especially Jim Morrison, because despite the attempts at keeping people back with some fencing, the tomb next to Jim had lots of graffiti on it.  While wandering around, we were again impressed with the statues and the stained glass windows.  As Cormac said, "Fancy!"

With tired feet, we ended the day satisfied with our tour of the dead in Paris!  Today, we're in search of churches and hopefully a little less walking -- maybe a boat tour of the Seine.

Mona and Marais

Yesterday, despite our attempt at an early start, we left the apartment about ten o'clock, but since a rainy weather report made us adjust our day's plans, the later departure didn't affect things too much.  So off to the Louvre with about thousands of other people.

The Louvre -- how do you describe the magnitude and size?  So much art!!  We hit the biggies and then checked out the Dutch paintings and the sculptures.

Crowds around all the most famous pieces

I always feel a little sorry for the Mona Lisa, what if she wants a day off?  So many adoring fans.

Lots of Greek and Roman images!

And, lots of Mary and child images too.

After our fill of culture, we headed off to the Marais.  Exiting the metro at Bastille, we had to hover under a store's awning during a thunder and lightning storm with hail.

blue skies one minute

pouring rain the next

Luckily, the storm passed quickly and we wandered the Marais, window shopping and snacking.

loved the iron balconies in this neighborhood

gourmet chocolates

resting outside the Pompidou 

fun sculptures outside Pompidou

My kids have become addicted to Magnum bars, so when we saw a store that made ones to order, they had to try them.

made out of Magnum sticks

Yum!

About seven o'clock, the Marais turned into a party with lots of people having drinks outside of cafes and music blaring into the streets.  We loved the disco balls in the windows above one bar.

The Marais neighborhood was great!  The shops were endlessly interesting -- one favorite was a fishmonger, where she had decorated her display of fish with greenery, and the architecture was also really fun to explore.  A great first full day in Paris!!

à Paris

Yesterday we traveled from Glasgow to Paris!  We're staying in an apartment that I (due to my ignorance of Paris geography) thought was in the Marais, but it's actually a little further north near the Stalingrad metro stop.  However, we really like the location, since it feels truly French; we spent the afternoon walking around the neighborhood and didn't see a single tourist.

We're right next to the end of the Canal Saint Martin where it joins the Bassin de la Villette.

We walked along a street (Avenue Secretan) that had outdoor vendors selling (and giving samples of) wine, cheese, fruit, etc.

And ended up at a sweet little park (Parc de Buttes Chaumont) where Liam and I people watched, while the boys played hide and seek.

Then to a cafe for some refreshment -- very Paris!

So we felt like we saw some real Paris life on our first half day!  Today, we're off for the tourist stuff, which I suspect will entail lots of waiting in line.  

Scottish Immersion

It's hard to believe, but the end is in sight.  This week we go to France and Germany for ten days, then return to Scotland for a trip to Perth and Inverness (northern Scotland), then a few, final days in Glasgow and back home.  I can't imagine not being in Glasgow, but I'm sure the moment I'm back it will feel like I never left.

We're trying to eke out the most we can, so here are some of the quintessential Scottish things we've been doing as our time in Glasgow winds down.

A couple of weeks ago, our friends Simon and Marina had a history department party to say good-bye to Liam and another colleague who was working at the University of Glasgow temporarily.  Even though both Simon and Marine are transplants to Scotland, the spread at their house shows the generous hospitality extended to friends and family (as we also experienced while visiting cousins in Ireland).  Don't you want to go their next party?

sweets

savories

guests

Simon and Marina

Then on Sunday, Liam, Cormac and I went to see Macbeth.  Now, I've taught this play MANY times, but have never seen a live production of it.  This show was a little different -- Macbeth is in a mental hospital and tells the story by acting out all the parts himself in sort of a flashback style.  Although I missed the physical action and the different settings of the play, Alan Cumming surpassed himself in playing almost every part -- truly impressive acting.  Especially well-done was the use of CCTV and shadows to portray the three witches.  I also loved when the patient Macbeth asks the doctor and attendant, "When shall we three meet again?" at the beginning and end of the play.  Seeing this story of a Scottish king gone mad with ambition and hubris in Scotland with actors speaking in Scottish accents was very special!

creepy advertising poster

Also on Sunday, the whole family went to see my friend Barbara sing in the Mackintosh Choir, who performed a concert at the Mackintosh Church (described here).  The choir did a great job singing a range of numbers from "Hallelujah" (made famous by the Shrek movie) to "Ave Verum" (a Mozart hymn).  But most interesting to us was a series of traditional Scottish songs, which told the story of Charles Stuart's mid-18th century attempt to restore his father James VIII to the throne with the aid of the Jacobites (Latin for James, so James supporters).  Bonnie Prince Charlie's forces were defeated, but a legend was created.  Many of the songs expressed the loyalty and bravery the Stuarts and their supporters showed when fighting against great odds.

So, food, royalty, song, drama -- to me that's Scottish immersion, and a lot of what we will miss the most when we have to leave Scotland.  But in answer to the lyrics of the choir's encore song "Will ye no' come back again?"  I'm sure we will return some day (never mind enjoy our remaining time)!

On the Mackintosh Trail, Again

As I described here, Charles Rennie Mackintosh is one of Glasgow's most famous people.  A designer and architect, his designs intertwine natural and geographic elements with simplicity and light.

My mother-in-law Gerri, my Glaswegian buddy Barbara, and I went to the Mackintosh House on the campus of the University of Glasgow.  This "house" is actually reassembled principle rooms from the the house the Mackintoshes lived in from 1906 to 1914.  Although you can't take pictures of the interior, this shot from the brochure show his use of light and dark contrasts.

This bedroom was a design for another house -- it feels very surreal to me, like a Dali dreamscape.

Mackintosh's wife, Frances Macdonald was an artist herself, mostly working with metal sculptures that seem very art-deco to me.

Then, Liam, Gerri, and I went to visit the Mackintosh Church at Queen's Cross, where Mackintosh again used simple lines and natural symbols to create a striking building.

blue rose stained glass window

bird protecting nest detail on pulpit

Once again we are lucky to live in a city where so much of the creativity and vibrancy of the Victorian era is still present and accessible!

Yesterday was Gerri's last day, and we are so sad to see her leave.  All our parents (and parent-like aunt) made it over to see us in Glasgow.  We loved showing them (and all our other visitors) the city we've come to admire so much.

Now, a week to pack in some fun Glasgow things, then onto France and Germany!